Thermaltake Level 10 GT Battle Edition. CPU Replacement - i. Fixit. The exact steps required to replace a processor depend on many factors, including the type of processor, CPU cooler, motherboard, and case you are using. Installing a CPU and Heatsink Share. These instructions assume that you are installing the CPU onto the motherboard before installing the motherboard into the. How to remove Intel push-pin heatsink from motherboard? I've been trying to remove the heatsink to. It may be possible to install your new processor without removing your. To remove your motherboard. Save on Sony PlayStation 4 Replacement Parts and. Phillips Screwdriver To Remove Some Of The Screws In Your PS4. Screws for PS4 chasis and motherboard. In the following sections, we illustrate the procedure for replacing a Socket 4. Most other processors, including Socket 4. A), Socket 7. 54, and Socket 9. Socket 7. 75 processors differ significantly, so we illustrate the installation of a Socket 7. Cleanliness Is Next to Goodliness One of our tech reviewers suggests precleaning the system in a less dirt- sensitive location, such as a garage workbench, prior to moving the computer onto the kitchen table for the balance of the process. Asus TS700-E8-PS4 V2 Manual Online: Installing The Cpu Heatsink. To install the CPU heatsink: 1. Place the CPU heatsink and fan on top of the installed CPU. CPU Replacement ΒΆ. If you elect to remove the motherboard. Install Heatsink Without Removing Motherboard From Ps4 PriceThis precaution enhances domestic bliss and increases the possibility of budget increases when it comes time for the next upgrade. A NASTY CRACK If you decide to install the processor with the motherboard in place, be very careful about how much pressure you apply when installing the new CPU cooler. Applying too much pressure when you install the CPU cooler can crack the motherboard. Removing the old processor . To do so, take the following steps: Disconnect the power cord, monitor, keyboard, mouse, and other external peripherals, and move the system to a well- lit work area. Again, the kitchen table is traditional. Remove the cover from the case and clean the system thoroughly, inside and out. There are few things less pleasant than working on a filthy system. Examine the system to decide whether to remove the motherboard before proceeding or to install the new processor with the motherboard in place. That decision depends on many factors, including your level of experience in replacing processors, the amount of working room available inside the case, the type of clamping mechanism used to secure the CPU cooler, and so on. If in doubt, remove the motherboard. If you elect to remove the motherboard, record the locations of every cable that connects to it. Many people use a digital camera for that purpose. Disconnect all of the cables and remove the screws that secure the motherboard to the case. Ground yourself by touching the case structure or the power supply, lift the motherboard out of the case, and place it on a flat, nonconductive surface. If you haven't done so already, remove the cable that connects the CPU cooler fan to the motherboard power header. Release the clamp or clamps that secure the CPU cooler to the motherboard, and attempt to lift the CPU cooler away from the motherboard, using very gentle pressure. If necessary, you can slide the CPU cooler back and forth very gently in the horizontal plane, keeping its base parallel to the motherboard. Set the original CPU cooler aside. If you plan to salvage it and the original processor (why not?), remove the remnants of the thermal compound from the base of the cooler. You can often do so just by rubbing the base with your thumb to remove the compound, which usually has the consistency of rubber cement. If the thermal compound is too persistent, try using the edge of a credit card or a knife to scrape off the compound. Be careful to avoid scratching the surface of the cooler. Goof- Off or a similar solvent may also be helpful. Some people even use fine steel wool, but if you do that, make sure that no small pieces remain on the cooler. If you use the cooler later, even a tiny piece of steel wool can short out the processor or the motherboard, causing all sorts of problems. With the CPU cooler removed, the processor is visible in its socket. If you intend to salvage the processor for later use, it's a good idea to remove the remnants of the thermal compound while the CPU is still seated in the socket, where it is well grounded and protected from injury. You can do so by rubbing gently with your thumb or by using the edge of a credit card as a scraper. Once again, use a hair dryer to warm the processor if you have difficulty removing the thermal compound. Once the processor is clean, lift the ZIF lever to release the clamping pressure on the socket and then lift the processor from the socket. It should separate from the socket without any resistance at all. If it does not, you can apply gentle pressure to separate it, but be very careful not to bend (or snap off) any of the fragile processor pins. Even if you don't plan to reuse the processor, a snapped- off pin may render the motherboard useless. For the time being, place the processor pins- up on a flat, nonconductive surface such as the tabletop. Later on, you can use the packaging from the new processor to store the old processor. GENTLE PERSUASION If the CPU cooler doesn't break loose with gentle persuasion, don't yank it. The thermal compound between the CPU cooler and the CPU sometimes sets up like glue. Pulling too hard can pull the CPU right out of the socket, damaging the old CPU and possibly the socket. If that happens, you may have to replace the motherboard. If you're working with the motherboard in situ, turn the computer on and let it run for a few minutes to warm the processor, which melts the thermal compound and makes it easier to break the bond. If you've removed the motherboard, point a hair dryer at the CPU cooler and CPU and let it run for several minutes, until the CPU cooler becomes warm to the touch. At that point, the CPU cooler should separate easily from the CPU. Installing the new processor (Sockets 4. A, 4. 78, 7. 54, 9. In this section, we illustrate the procedure for installing a Socket 4. Pentium 4 processor, but the procedure is identical for a Celeron, and nearly so for Socket 4. A), Socket 7. 54, and Socket 9. Athlon 6. 4 and Sempron processors. The only real difference is how the CPU cooler is secured, and that should be obvious to you when you examine your particular CPU cooler. SOMEONE ALWAYS HAS TO BE DIFFERENTSocket 7. Intel processors use a slightly different procedure. Rather than being secured with a ZIF lever that clamps the processor pins, Socket 7. See the following section for details. We chose a retail- boxed processor to illustrate this section. One advantage of a retail- boxed processor is that it comes with a competent CPU cooler that is guaranteed to be compatible with the processor, and typically costs only a few dollars more than the bare OEM processor. The CPU coolers that Intel and AMD currently bundle with their retail- boxed processors are quite good, especially considering the low incremental cost of buying the bundle. The bundled coolers aren't quite as efficient or as quiet as the best aftermarket CPU coolers, but they suffice for most purposes. Our retail- boxed Pentium 4 processor, shown in Figure 5- 9, includes the processor itself and a large Intel- branded CPU cooler. The plastic packaging Intel uses is treacherous. We eventually got the package open using scissors, but for a time we thought we'd have to resort to a chain saw. Figure 5- 9: The retail- boxed Intel Pentium 4 processor and heatsink/fan. OPEN SESAMEDon't try to pry the package open using just your fingers. Robert did that once with an Intel retail- boxed processor. When the package finally popped, the heat- sink/fan unit went sailing across the room and the processor landed in his lap. With the arm vertical, there is no clamping force on the socket holes, which allows the processor to drop into place without requiring any pressure. Figure 5- 1. 0: Lift the socket lever to prepare the socket to receive the processor. Zero Means Zero. Never apply pressure to seat the processor. You'll bend the pins and destroy the processor. Note that closing the ZIF lever may cause the processor to rise up slightly from the socket. If this happens, raise the lever again and reseat the processor. After the processor is fully seated, it's safe to apply gentle pressure with your finger to keep it in place as you close the ZIF lever. Correct orientation is indicated on the processor and socket by some obvious means. For Socket 4. 78, the processor has a trimmed corner and the socket a small triangle, both visible in Figure 5- 1. ZIF socket lever. With the socket lever vertical, align the processor with the socket and drop the processor into place, as shown in Figure 5- 1. The processor should seat flush with the socket just from the force of gravity, or with at most a tiny push. If the processor doesn't simply drop into place, something is misaligned. Remove the processor and verify that it is aligned properly and that the pattern of pins on the processor corresponds to the pattern of holes on the socket. Figure 5- 1. 1: Align the processor with the socket and drop it into place. With the processor in place and seated flush with the socket, press the lever arm down and snap it into place, as shown in Figure 5- 1. You may have to Cleanliness Counts press the lever arm slightly away from the socket to allow it to snap into a locked position. Figure 5- 1. 2: Snap the ZIF socket lever into place to lock the processor into the socket. Cleanliness Counts. If the processor has previously been used, clean off any remaining thermal compound or the remnants of the thermal pad before you install the heatsink/fan unit. You can remove old thermal compound using Goof- Off or isopropyl alcohol on a cloth, or by polishing the processor gently with 0. If you use steel wool, which is conductive, make absolutely sure that no stray bits of it remain after you finish polishing the processor. Even a tiny piece of steel wool can short out the processor or another motherboard component, with disastrous results. Better yet, use steel wool only when the processor is away from the motherboard, prior to installation. To install the CPU cooler, begin by polishing the top of the processor with a paper towel or soft cloth, as shown in Figure 5- 1. Plus, they don't seem to leave any debris.) Remove any grease, grit, or other material that might prevent the heatsink from making intimate contact with the processor surface. Figure 5- 1. 3: Polish the processor with a paper towel before installing the CPU cooler.
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